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Thermal baths in Budapest are plentiful. There is a fee to enter the facilities, which cover a locker rental, use of the thermal baths and the swimming pools. Additional services, like a massage, mud bath, mouth massage or medical treatment can be added on for an additional fee. The Gellert Baths are perhaps the most famous of these. Located on the Buda side, just after crossing the Szabadsag bridge (the green bridge – this bridge is also the one suicides are committed from), the baths are inside the hotel. Matthew Barney shot part of his Cremaster series here as well and it has been a backdrop for many a project. The only odd thing about my experience there was the massage. First I asked a number of times why I had not come directly into the massage (I had spent 2 hrs photographing prior to getting into the spa facility), I was forgiven my lateness when I explained that I had 4 cameras w/ me and that I was a photographer. I was then asked to de-bathingsuit (in the Szechenyi baths the massage was done in a swim suit) infront of the attendant, then to lay on the massage table – no cover sheet (the bottom sheets had probably not been changed in a week – luckily I brought a towel to lay on),
about 5-10 different people came in to visit and whisper w/ my masseuse and then at the end when I thought I was all done and needed to sit up, there was an additional shoulder/neck/arm massage while I was in the sitting position. I can recommend the massage if you’re willing to give up some western-massage preconceptions (and any self-consciousness). The structure is beautiful and worth seeing and enjoying for a day off.

If you’d like to go to Vienna and have only two days, I can suggest the following (to get the most of your visit).
Museum Quartier and the Museum of Natural History and the Opera is just down the street. If you walk another twenty to thirty minutes from the see a load of other historic buildings and St. Stephen’s Cathedral. We began our first day at the Belevedere Castle to see “the Kiss” and other stunning artworks. The castle itself and it’s gardens are a must see and simply grand in every way. Afterwards walk to St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the main part of town, be sure to go to the top of St. Stephen’s tower and if you have an issue with heights, just get past the narrow metal grated bridge and you’ll be on a nice slab of stone and feel much better (and happy that you saw the city from above). Then take a walk or a carriage ride to see the main part of the town, statuary and a number of points of interest. Be advised that in NY the life span of carriage horses is only a couple of years, I don’t know if the same harsh conditions apply in Vienna. You’ll know when
you’ve arrived because when you look up you’ll see massive Grecian (Venetian)-looking sculptures of nude deities in mid myth or oxidized copper and gold domes atop large white buildings. Be sure to stop and have your favorite coffee drink and a sumptuous sweet treat. All the cakes are moist and subtle especially the fruit topped ones. Finally you can explore the Museum Quartier and it’s courtyard and go to a lovely dinner on the Mariahilfer Str.
Day 2

It has been a bit since I’ve updated. I could offer up the excuse that I stepped on my card reader (I did) or that Beata’s dog, Max, ate my homework or that the aliens temporarily abducted me; giant red squirrels with tufted ears (Jenna's favorite) invaded our flat and held us hostage while we fed them nuts and fanned them w/ leaves; the European cup finals could not be held without Odette, Jenna and I blessing the soccer ball (that is the secret reason we were in Vienna); I am really a fembot (from the old Bionic Woman tv show) and I didn’t recharge my batteries for a few days, etc (all true). Much has happened since the last post, Jenna and I missed our train back to Budapest (this means, that I misunderstood the guy who sold us the tickets and we were actually just chilling out completely unaware that our train had already left) and had to scramble to find quite possibly the last available room in Vienna. The Euro Cup was being held the weekend we were there and the town was overrun w/ wild drunken Spaniards and Germans. We stayed at a Pension (pen see eyon), these are supposed to be just a cut above the hostel dorm-like environment, but my theory is that people who don’t get much of a pension open up their scary houses and let you stay there while charging you. It’s just a theory. We did enjoy our hostel though, quite a bit. When we arrived back in Budapest on Sunday, everything was different. Perhaps leaving was the best way for me to appreciate the visual beauty of this city, because when I came back, aside from the overwhelming smell of cigarette smoke, I was awestruck yet again with how beautiful the city of Budapest actually is.
Going to Vienna is like walking into heaven and seeing what one imagines the pearly gates to look like. The city is white, touched with gold. Although both Budapest and Vienna were built around the same time, they are very different experiences and because of their proximity (a 3 hr train ride), I recommend seeing both. The streets of Budapest proudly ache with history, on every building you can see ornate details and sculptures contemplatively looking to the sky and the earth. The ornamental works are weighty in aesthetic and mood and the buildings are covered with their age. Many of these sculptures tell of the city’s history and remind you of the political past that the country has had to endure in the 20th century. Old structures are occasionally abutted against newer ones, aging and beautifying them even more. In Vienna, the visual candy is much more spread out and I cannot say that every street is an interesting one to go down and photograph (but in Budapest, I have found something I’d like to photograph down every street). There are times in Vienna when a feeling of artifice overwhelms and you wonder if behind the façade of the building there are sticks holding it up (something akin to the feeling one gets when walking down Disneyland’s “Mainstreet USA” – a bit too perfect). The streets, the buildings, the town looks as though it has been washed with bleach and toothbrushes and then delicately covered with gold accents to let it sparkle as you walk by. Vienna is also fresh and airy like freshly washed white linens hung to dry in the cool summer evening air. After a few hours, the questions of artifice pass and one feels at home and relaxed, like you’ve strolled these streets all your life and can continue for all the rest. Perhaps it was the phenomenal food or the plethora of exceptional cafés that we sat in, but Jenna and I were a bit tempted by the city’s pheromones as well. And if I didn’t mention this – the art is great. For me personally, Vienna was more interesting because I was walking the same streets and going to the same places that my grandparents and aunts and uncles had been 60+ years ago. It is interesting to think about making a slight bend in time and space via the portal of place and walking in their same footsteps if only for a moment.




It has been a strange and wonderful day. Wonderful for being lucky enough to wake up early enough to see (and shoot in) the brilliant morning light and strange because upon my return to the hotel the "vibe" (for lack of a better word) had changed. It is hard to explain the phenomena of a vibe. Perhaps it is an introspective mood or sensitivity to the world around you, or perhaps it is something unseen in the air that wafts from place to place to wrap itself around unsuspecting souls as they get lost in the fog of impending emotional limbo. For today, I think that focusing inward seems to be a potential culprit. Outside ourselves, so much adventure awaits. A word of wisdom from Chucku, "the one thing all happy people have in common is that they are grateful." Today I hope you can be grateful and happy for something or someone. Life can change so unexpectedly, it is good to appreciate what we have while it's here. If you have nothing else to be grateful for, be happy for this: that you're not a dead, stuffed, and on display.
On the worst of days, when the heat is visible and you awake to a large oven you call a bedroom, your skin feels as if someone has poured sugar water all over you and let it dry. On these days, be sure that the clouds will roll in completely unexpectedly, the lightning will sharpen the sky and the rain will wash away all the hot day brought and leave a cool sweet-smelling night. The light changes so subtly throughout the day that the overcast sky is always a welcome sight and then afterwards the streets are cool and the people are back at play, filling sidewalk cafes and pubs alike.
the windows, almost as a group, we trickle up to the 7th floor (the ladies are staying on the 5th floor and the guys are on the 6th floor). Almost every day the ladies eat breakfast together and on most days we'll see one or two of the guys come in and eat as well. Afterwards, we all begin our work - Odette and I run out to shoot, Jenna begins her studio work and I'm not really sure what our male counterparts do with the day, but I'm sure they're just as busy as we are. By about midday (if I haven't lost my mind and decided to run around and have heat stroke), we return to visit galleries, museums or get research done. Then again by the evening, before the light is gone, I shoot again and come back to see what my roommates are up to for dinner. Often we bring some snacks to eat in the room. Tonight Jenna and I went for food and were drowned by smoke and heavy cologne scent. Everyone smokes. Smoking may actually be an unofficial national pasttime. J pointed out that perhaps we should carry out cards with Hungarian translations saying something like "It is 2008, much research has been done about smoking and here it is..." I'm in full agreement. The later the night gets, the more we wake up and I find myself out past midnight nearly every day (it is 1am now).
ends of the chain bridge, (the bridge that connects Pest to the Buda side and the royal palace) giant lion statues that resemble the exact ones from my dream guard the path. On the Buda side, under the royal palace, is a long tunnel. The first time I encountered them was right before sunset. I paused long enough to remember the dream/nightmare and quite bravely (only looking back once or twice) kept walking.

I'm including some random pictures for you to enjoy…dog with pacifier, underwater kiss (taken from a basement disco that is beneath a shallow pool of water), Howard, Jenna et moi (boarding a streetcar), Andreas, Jenna, Benjamin, Gregory, et (night out for dinner and a walk), and the image of the beetle that visited my face.











